No. 3499 — How to Make Chocolate Itself
English historical translation of Molokhovets recipe No. 3499 from the 1901 Russian cookbook, retaining original methods and measures.
The author considers homemade chocolate economical if the cocoa is fresh. She suggests breaking a cocoa bean to make sure it has not decayed, then roasting small batches in a coffee roaster.
As soon as the beans begin to crack slightly, spread them apart on a clean table so they cool quickly without over-roasting. The author warns that both under-roasted and over-roasted cocoa are unsuitable.
Remove the skins when cool, grind the beans as finely as possible and pound 1½ pounds of cocoa powder thoroughly in an iron mortar. The historical method keeps the mortar very warm using heated iron plates, changing them as they cool, but cautions against scorching the cocoa.
When the powder has become a smooth oily paste, gradually add 1½ pounds finely sifted sugar while constantly working and stirring.
For flavour the source gives approximately ½ lot finely pounded vanilla mixed with a little sugar, and optionally another ½ lot cardamom and cinnamon. The author calls vanilla generally harmful and suggests instead using sugar previously scented by a vanilla pod in a covered glass jar; she refers to recipe No. 3055.
Mix the paste well and fill shallow tin chocolate-bar moulds that are wider at the top than the bottom. Shake each mould so the mass settles evenly, then leave covered with muslin in a cool place to dry without flies.
When the exposed surface dries, turn the chocolate out onto clean paper and dry the other side thoroughly. Wrap in paper.
Good chocolate, according to the source, should be very dark reddish-brown, smooth and melting in the mouth. The Russian webpage also links to a later editorial article about chocolate preparation.