No. 980 — Boiled Smoked Ham

The book uses 'ham' for the smoked hind or forequarter of pork. Soak it overnight in cold water. In the morning wash with boiling water, rub clean with wheat bran and rinse once more in cold water.

Trim the lower leg by about three vershoks (an old Russian measure); the cut-off piece can be used for borscht. Tie the ham in a napkin, cover with cold water and cook first over high heat, then gently under a lid.

Avoid overcooking. The source says that if the small bone on the side opposite the shank separates of its own accord during cooking, the ham is overdone; if it can easily be twisted out after lifting the ham onto a board, cooking is sufficient.

Put the ham back into its cooking broth, take the pan off the heat and allow it to cool there, which the author says keeps the meat juicy.

The source gives five hours for a fourteen-Russian-pound ham started in cold water. If it is put in boiling water, brought to the boil twice and then cooked covered over low heat, it gives four hours; this latter method is recommended.

For the latter method, the author suggests adding three or four quartered onions, four bay leaves and fifteen to twenty allspice and black peppercorns.

When the ham has cooled in the broth, set it skin-side up on a board, twist out the small bone, cut and fold back the skin near it, and trim off the overcooked edge, about one vershok wide.

Cut neat even slices from top to bottom and arrange on a platter. Offer mustard, horseradish with vinegar, Tatar sauce No. 461 or mixed mustard gravy No. 476.